There are four things to consider when
buying acoustic guitar strings: gauge, metal composition,
coating, and brand.
GAUGE
The gauge of the strings tells you how thick they are.
All string makers offer strings in a variety of
gauges. The thicker the strings are, the louder they
are and the better they sound… but they hurt fingers more
because they are more difficult to press down onto the
fretboard.
String thickness/gauge is measured in 1/1000ths of an
inch. For example, many steel string acoustic guitars
come from the factory with Medium gauge strings, which are
usually .013 gauge (meaning 13/1000ths of an inch) on the
thinnest high E string (#1 string) and .056 gauge (meaning
56/1000ths of an inch) on the thickest low E string (#6
string). Guitar players often refer to string sets
using the numbers rather than the names, but they drop
decimals. So Medium gauge strings are often referred
to as "13-56's". Sometimes we get lazy and just say
the number of the thinnest string; so Medium gauge strings
are sometimes just called "13's".
"Medium" gauge strings (.013-.056) are loud, with a solid
tone, but are hard to press, and many people find them
painful and difficult to play. They are preferred by
advanced players with strong fingers who want the most
volume and best tone. But most players find barre
chords very hard to play, and bending strings is near
impossible with these monster strings.
“Light” gauge strings (.012-.053) are a good compromise
between good tone versus ease of playing. Many
intermediate and advanced players prefer Light Gauge
strings, and many guitars come from the factory with light
gauge strings. This is the gauge I personally use on
all of my guitars.
“Custom Light” gauge strings (.011-.052) are even
lighter. They don’t create as much volume but are easy
on the fingers. Many beginners like them because they
can play for longer stretches of time while fingers are
getting stronger and their callouses are building up.
This is the gauge I used for many years because playing
barre chords was so much easier, and my fingers and wrists
didn't hurt as much.
“Extra Light” or “Slinky” strings (.010-.047) are the
thinnest strings. They are super easy on the fingers,
but they don’t create much volume and are thin sounding.
METAL
COMPOSITION
On an
acoustic guitar, the two thinnest/highest strings are
made of steel. The other four strings also have
thin steel core wires, but with a softer metal alloy
wire wound around the outside of the core wires.
Most string manufacturers offer a choice between two
types of alloy that are used to make the windings on
these strings: “80/20 Bronze” and “Phosphor
Bronze”. These two different alloys result in very
different sounds.
“80/20 Bronze” (80% copper and 20% zinc) strings are OEM
on most lower priced acoustic guitars. They are
the “standard” sounding strings. They have a good
tone from top to bottom. They have a “punch” when
you first hit them with a pick, then as they fade they
become mellow after the initial punch. 80/20
Bronze offers a bright and articulate sound while
maintaining a bell-like projection with scooped mids. On
most guitars, these strings sound great when using a
pick. They really cut through the mix when they
are new. Their weakness is that 80/20s tend to
mellow out rather quickly, and before long they sound
dull. (By
the way, guitar players and string manufacturers call them
"80/20 Bronze" but that is a misnomer; copper and zinc are
actually brass, not bronze. If you don't believe me,
look it up. Copper and Zinc alloys are the
definition of Brass. So the correct name for these
strings should actually be "80/20 Brass.")
“Phosphor Bronze” (92% copper and 8% tin plus a trace
amount of phosphorous) strings come OEM on some high end
acoustic guitars. The higher copper content gives
them more complexities in the overtones/harmonics.
Phosphor Bronze strings have a full, warm and complex
tone with rich midrange harmonics, that sits well in the
mix. Their weakness is that they do not have as much
punch, and they make the guitar sound thinner on the
bottom end. Because they have a richer tone when
played softly, these strings sound great when finger
picking.
"Nickel Bronze" is a relatively new alloy, recently
introduced by D'Addario, that has a different flavor
than either 80/20 Bonze or Phosphor Bronze. The
windings are made of phosphor bronze that has been
coated with a thin coat of nickel. Nickel Bronze
offers an uncolored and natural tone that can be
described as more organic, while maintaining natural
overtones and great projection. With Nickel Bronze
strings, you hear the natural sound of the guitar’s wood
without as much coloration from the strings. The tone is
clear and focused, with articulate highs and mids and a
tight and responsive low-end.
There’s no right or wrong; it is a matter of individual
taste. I personally use Phosphor Bronze on all my
acoustic guitars except my 12-string, which has 80/20
strings.
COATINGS
Normal (non-coated) strings sound good for a short
time, then oxygen in the air attacks the bronze, and oil
and sweat and dirt from your fingers seeps through the
windings, which dulls the sound. Most players can
get several weeks of playing before the strings start
sounding bad, but some people with oily or sweaty hands
have to change strings every day. A few
professionals even change strings halfway through a
show! Fortunately, string manufacturers offer
strings that last longer because they are nano-coated
with a microscopic layer of a polymer (usually PTFE /
Teflon) that keeps oxygen from attacking the bronze and
keeps finger sweat/oil out of the windings.
Although coated strings cost a little more, they last
much longer, so they are extremely cost effective.
In addition to long
life, there are two other benefits of coated strings:
First, the coating makes the string feel smoother to
your fingers and, second, the coating reduces "finger
noise" when sliding your fingers across them.
Not all guitarists like coated strings. There are
two reasons why some players dislike them. First,
some don't like the smoother feel of the strings (they
say they feel "slimy"... I personally think they are
nuts; I love the smoother feel and reduced
squeaking). More importantly, coating a string
always dulls its sound. In my opinion, a coating
on 80/20 strings ruins them. The coating takes
away the "chime" and "punch" of the 80/20's right from
the start. To me, brand-new coated 80/20's sound
similar to used 80/20 strings that have been on the
guitar for several weeks or months and are starting to
sound dull. They just don't "sing" as well and
don't have that clear bell-like sound that characterizes
80/20's.
In contrast, in my opinion, coating Phosphor Bronze
strings does not ruin them. Perhaps that is
because Phosphor Bronze has such rich harmonics to begin
with. I love coated Phosphor Bronze strings.
They feel great, they sound great, and they stay
sounding great for a very long time.
Nickel Bronze strings are are not offered with a
coating, so I don't know how their sound would be
affected by a coating. I suspect they would be too
dull, which is probably why D'Addario doesn't offer them
with a coating.
Not all coatings are equal. Most manufacturers
coat the winding wire before winding it onto the core
wire. Elixir Nanowebs and D'Addario XS strings are
the only ones that coat the entire string after it has
been wound, which better seals the spaces between the
windings to keep oils and contaminants out.
BRAND OF STRINGS
BEST SOUND AND LONGEST LIFE: Elixir is my favorite
string for general, everyday use, because they sound
better and last longer than any other strings I have
tried. Elixir makes two kinds of coatings: Nanoweb
and Polyweb. I recommend Nanowebs. Polywebs
last longer than Nanowebs but I do not recommend them
because they are too dull sounding.
MOST RESISTANT TO BREAKING: D'Addario XS strings sound
almost as good and last almost as long as Elixir
Nanoweb's, and their "NY Steel" core makes them 13% more
resistant to breaking. They seem to be a bit
brighter than Nanowebs but they are also
squeakier. They are my second favorite string for
general, everyday use.
EASIEST TO PLAY: One more option that I only recommend
in very unusual cases is Zager EZ-Play "Pillow Touch"
strings. These strings are made from a softer
steel that flexes more easily, which makes them much
easier to press. FAR easier. The difference
is quite remarkable; they require 50% less finger
pressure than other strings to form chords. In
fact, on a well set up guitar, they are as easy to play
as nylon strings! BUT (and this is a big "but"),
the trade-off is that they are not great sounding
strings. So I don't recommend them for most
students. However, for young children with small
fingers, and also for anyone else with a physical
disability such as weak fingers, arthritis, carpel
tunnel, or similar conditions that result in finger or
wrist weakness or pain, these are the strings for you. Zager offers them coated or
uncoated, and of course I recommend the coated
version.
There are many other brands, and I like some of them,
but the above three are the brands I recommend.
RECOMMENDATIONS FOR MY STUDENTS
For most intermediate and advanced students using a
full sized guitar, I recommend Elixir Nanoweb Phosphor
Bronze strings in the Light gauge (.012-.053) (product
code ELX_16052).
For most intermediate and advanced students using a
GS Mini guitar, I recommend Elixir Nanoweb
Phosphor Bronze strings in the Medium Gauge
(.013-.056) (product code ELX_16102)].
For most
beginner students using a full-sized guitar, I
recommend Elixir Nanoweb Phosphor Bronze strings in
the Custom Light gauge (.011-.052) (product code
ELX_16027).
For most beginner students using a GS Mini guitar, I
recommend Elixir Nanoweb Phosphor Bronze strings in
the Light gauge (.012-.053) (product code
ELX_16052).
For young teens or adults using a full-sized guitar
who have difficulty with string buzzing
or wrist/finger pain using the above recommended
strings, I recommend Elixir Nanoweb Phosphor Bronze
strings in the Extra Light Gauge (.010-.047) (product
code ELX_16002).
For young teens or
adults using a GS Mini guitar who have difficulty with
string buzzing or wrist/finger pain using the above
recommended strings, I recommend Elixir Nanoweb Phosphor
Bronze strings in the Custom Light gauge (.011-.052)
(product code ELX_16027).
For young
children, and also for adults with finger or wrist
disabilities who need a softer string
than recommended above, I recommend Zager EZ-Play Pillow
Touch coated strings.
WHERE TO BUY
STRINGS
The local music stores usually
have some, but not all, of the
strings listed above in
stock. If the stores don’t
have the set you want, don’t let
them talk you into buying what
they have on hand. You can
ask them to please order the
strings you want, or you can
always purchase strings at
sweetwater.com, stringsandbeyond.com,
or juststrings.com,
all three of which are very
good, honest companies.
Do not ever buy strings on Ebay,
and be careful on Amazon.
Beware of
fake, counterfeit, knock off
"Elixir" strings for super cheap
prices on Ebay and other online
retailers (usually
around 1/3 the price of real
Elixirs). They are NOT
real. They are NOT made by
Elixir, they are NOT made of the
right alloy, they are NOT wound
with quality equipment and
workmanship, and they are NOT
even coated at all. They
are made by Chinese scumbags who
should be banned from Ebay for
violating USA trademark and
patent laws. Anyone who
sells them is a scammer who
is trying to sell garbage to
unsuspecting customers.
Zager strings are available
only directly from the
manufacturer. (LINK
HERE to order Zager
strings).
HOW TO RESTRING
YOUR GUITAR
There are
various methods for
changing strings, and
there are a lot of strongly
held but wrong
opinions among guitarists
as
to
which is the
"best"
way. I
have tried them
all, and have
found that the
method
recommended by
Taylor Guitars
is by far the
easiest,
fastest,
cleanest, and
most tuning-stable
of them
all. LINK HERE
for
information on
how to
correctly
install
strings.
In most cases, you can change brands and brass types and
coatings without re-adjusting your guitar's action, but if
you change gauge of strings, or if you change to Zager
strings, you will need to adjust the truss rod in the neck
to compensate for the different tension the strings place on
the neck. LINK
HERE for information on how to adjust the truss
rod.