After you have carefully selected an electric guitar and amp (READ THIS FIRST!), here are some things you should consider:

SET UP IS CRITICAL

Most electric guitars come from the factory with too high of an action.  Because electric guitars have much less string tension than acoustic guitars, this doesn't necessarily make them more painful to play.  But it does cause havoc to intonation.  If the strings are farther away from the fretboard than they need to be, pressing a string down to the fret stretches the string too much and the pitch will go sharp.  There are several adjustments that can be made to fix this problem.  One of them involves adjusting the steel rod that is in the neck (the "truss rod").  LINK HERE to learn how to do this.  But the others (adjusting the nut and the saddle heights) require expertise and specialized tools.  I can also do this for you at a lesson, or you can take your guitar to a qualified luthier to get this done.

GOOD STRINGS

Strings can make a HUGE difference in how easy (or hard) the guitar is to play, and how wonderful (or crummy) the guitar sounds.  The strings that come from the factory on new guitars are very seldom the best strings for the guitar. 

I have a separate article on electric guitar strings that you should read before buying strings.  Go back to the previous page to find it.

CASE OR GIG BAG

Every electric guitar needs some kind of protection if it is used for gigging.  Hard shell cases are usually the best way to go with electric guitars, although I have used Levy's padded canvas bags in the past and they were fine.

If you buy an Xaviere, Slick, or Agile electric guitar online, I recommend purchasing a hard shell case with the guitar and having the guitar shipped to you inside the case, for an extra layer of protection for the guitar during shipping.

GUITAR STAND

Changes in temperature and humidity do not damage electric guitars as much as acoustic guitars.  For this reason, you do not have to store your electric guitar in its case and humidify the case.  It is fine to store your electric guitar on a stand.  This makes it easier to access to practice.  And it looks great in your room!  Also, when you perform on stage, you will need a guitar stand to hold the guitar while you are not using it. 

There are many different kinds of guitar stands, but the one I recommend is the Hercules (either model GS414B PLUS or GS415B PLUS, whichever you prefer).  This stand has a strong, wide tripod base that is extremely stable and resistant to tipping over.  It also has a design that does not place the weight of the guitar onto the the bottom of the body which sits on the stand; rather, the guitar is suspended from the neck with an automatic clip that surrounds the base of the headstock.  It is both faster to use onstage and also safer for the guitar than other styles of stands.  For those who play two or three guitars on stage (e.g., acoustic, acoustic 12 string, electric, and/or bass) Hercules also offers a model that holds two guitars (GS422B PLUS), and also one that holds three guitars (GS432B PLUS).  (There is another company that has a similar looking stand but it is not the same quality and it can damage your guitars.  Stick with the Hercules brand.)

TUNER

In an emergency, you can tune your electric guitar with any of several available free apps for Android or Apple phones (my personal favorite is "Pano Tuner" by Kaleloft).

But it's hard to tune an electric guitar with a phone.  Before you start performing, you'll need a guitar tuner.  For electric guitar, the most common option for students is a clip-on headstock tuner.  They are easier and more convenient to use than a cell phone, and they work even when the guitar isn't plugged in. 

The biggest selling clip-on headstock tuner is the Snark brand, which are very popular because they are inexpensive and easy to use.  Unfortunately, they have an extremely weak design and are notoriously prone to breaking.  I do not recommend them.  By far, the very best under-$30 headstock tuner is the TC Electronic Unitune which is the most accurate tuner on the market, at any price.  It is also very strong and extremely reliable.  I highly recommend this tuner, which is only available at sweetwater.com.

For performances in bands, the easiest tuners for electric guitars are pedal guitar tuners that mount on a pedalboard.  They don't get in the way and they can be accessed during a performance between songs with the press of a footswitch.  My favorites are the TC Electronic PolyTune 3 tuners (there are several models to choose from).  Or if you buy the Fender Mustang III V.2 amp that I recommend, I recommend that you purchase the 4-switch pedal made specifically for that amp, which has a built-in tuner/mute switch and display.

CAPO

You can probably get by playing lead electric guitar in a band without a capo.  But if you play rhythm, a capo might be useful.  (There are a couple of songs we play in my band that are just much easier to play with a capo.)

If you decide to use a capo, beware.  On an electric guitar with jumbo frets, if you use the wrong capo and/or place it on the fretboard incorrectly, it will bend the pitch sharp, earning you looks from the guys in the band that convey "what are you doing???"

For that reason, do not use a spring loaded capo with a strong spring (e.g., Kyser).  In the $20 price range, the best capo for electric guitars is the D'Addario Tri-Action, because it has an adjustable spring tension.

However, for advanced and professional players, the very best capo I’ve found is the G7th Performance 3 steel string guitar capo.  It costs considerably more than the D’Addario, but it’s much nicer because it is not spring loaded.  You control exactly how much pressure it puts on the strings, while you're putting it on, just by squeezing it.  It is elegant, very good looking, extremely strong and reliable, and capable of putting less pressure on the strings without buzz than any other capo I've tried.

PICKS

It is important to understand that not all picks are created equal.  A 25 cent (or free) medium pick will work, but there are better sounding and playing picks out there.

For electric guitars, I have played with dozens and dozens of different picks over the years and nearly all of them have both strengths and weaknesses, with some good aspects but also some bad.  The best I have found is the D'Addario Acrilux Reso Standard.  It is a bright red 1.5mm pick made of pure acrylic.  It plays better than any other electric guitar pick I've ever used, it has a tone nearly as good as a stainless steel pick, it is strong and lasts a long time, and it's only $3 each (most acrylic picks sell for $30 or more).  It is perfect for all purposes except extremely fast solo work, where a thinner pick is better.

PICK GRIPS

If you have trouble holding onto a pick, and find it slipping sideways and sometimes flying out of your hand, don't shop for picks that are easy to hold.  Instead, buy a package of Monster Grips (silicone stick-on grip improvers," and apply one to each side of your favorite pick.  For most guitarists, that will solve the problem.  Another option is key cap identifier rings that can be easily modified to fit guitar picks.  (Just take a pair of sharp scissors and trim an additional 5mm to expand the thin hole in the side that the key slips through.)  I love those things.  They are cheap and reusable.  Not only do they make the picks super easy to hold, they also make the picks easier to find when you are looking for them.  Either of these is a better option than buying a crappy pick that its only selling point is that it's easy to hold.

For people who have weak fingers, carpel tunnel, arthritis, Parkinson's, or other disability, I recommend the ergonomic Pykmax UPP pick holder.  It is a fantastic device that sits comfortably in your hand and holds the pick for you. 

STRAP

Every electric guitarist needs a guitar strap for performing.

Cotton straps are cheap and comfortable and they stay in place well, and I recommend them for acoustic guitars, but for heavy electric guitars I prefer something more substantial.  Flexible suede leather straps are also fairly comfortable and don't slip, so they can be nice.  Nylon straps are very comfortable but they slip too much on the shoulder.  Stiff leather straps are uncomfortable and they are expensive, so I don't recommend them.

Because Les Paul style guitars are heavy, I like to use the Comfort Strapp Pro Guitar Long strap.  It is, by far, the most comfortable strap there is for heavy guitars, period!  I have one of these for each of my electric guitars and basses.  With this strap, I can play for hours, standing up, and it never hurts!  But I'm an old guy, and you may want a better looking strap.  That's fine; there are no rules.  Just be sure to get a strap that feels good and holds the guitar without slipping on your shoulder, and spreads the weight so your shoulder doesn't ache after a few hours.

Another option to consider is the D'Addario Auto Lock Guitar Strap, which has strap locks built in.  These straps are discussed below.

STRAP LOCKS

I VERY HIGHLY RECOMMEND buying and installing strap locks for electric guitars.  These prevent the guitar's strap pin from escaping from the strap's holes, and the guitar falling onto the stage... which is a really bad thing to happen during a performance!  I had this happen many times with my bass guitars in the past until I discovered strap locks.  Strap locks also make it much easier and faster to put your strap onto your guitar.

The best strap locks on the market are the D'Addario Universal Strap Lock System.  They are far easier to install and use than the other brands.  Installation is a simple 2-part process.  First, you just unscrew the existing strap pins, remove them from the guitar body, and replace them with the ones that come with the kit.  Then you push the other parts through the strap holes and tighten the cap with your hand.

D'Addario also offers their Auto Lock Guitar Strap, which is a complete guitar strap that has strap locks built in.  It is even easier to use, and it does not require any modifications to the guitar or to the guitar strap.  It utilizes the existing strap pins that came on the guitar from the factory.  It is a great idea for a fantastic price!  Knowing D'Addario, I'm sure it's a quality product, but I have never used one so I don't know how comfortable the strap is.

GUITAR CORD

You will need a decent quality guitar cord with 1/4" TS ends to plug your guitar into the amp.  15' is generally long enough.  A cord with both ends straight will always work, but a cord with one end straight to go into the guitar and the other end with a 90 degree bend to go into the amp is usually a good choice.  (The cord can be reversed for guitars that have a straight jack on the front, like a Fender Jazz bass.)  BUT IF YOU WIND THE CORD THROUGH THE STRAP WILL THE L SHAPED CORD BE BETTER ON THE GUITAR END?

The D'Addario PW-CGTPRO-15 is an inexpensive cord that is good enough for home use.  It is available from Sweetwater.com for a very low price (under $20). 

However, I recommend that you spend a little more and get a better cord that will hold up under the rigors of stage use.  The best bargain I have found is the EWI GBND Premium Series cords with Neutrik ends.  These are serious cords for a decent price (under $30).  For an extra $7, you can get the GBND-SILENT Premium Series cords, which is the same cord but with an automatic mute switch for silent plugging in and unplugging (this eliminates the loud "pop" when you unplug an instrument, which can damage your speakers).

The next step up is D'Addario American Stage cords.  When cords fail, it is usually because the wires break at the ends of the cord where it attaches to the jack.  The American Stage cords are nearly indestructible because of how the entire shield is soldered to the jack, which makes the ends the strongest part of the cord!  This makes them possibly the most reliable cords on the market.  Additionally, they have a special tip design that connects to the jacks of all guitars in a more solid way, making it harder to pull out (which is a good thing!).  And those tips are gold plated.  They sound great.  At about $40 per cord, they are pricey, but for professionals the reliability is worth the extra cost.  For an $15, you can get them with an automatic mute switch for silent plugging in and unplugging (this eliminates the loud "pop" when you unplug an instrument, which can damage your speakers).

For professionals, my personal preference and, in my opinion, the very best cord money can buy, is George L .155 cords with straight gold ends (either knurled or not knurled is fine, but stay away from the "L-shaped" ends).  These are the best sounding, extremely reliable, lowest capacitance, easiest to coil, rebuildable instrument cords ever made.  I have been using them exclusively for 40 years, and have beat them into the ground, and I'm still using the ones I bought 40 years ago.  You buy the cord in any length you want (or buy a long piece and make multiple cords by cutting them to any length), then you buy two ends for each cord that you plan to make.  You assemble them yourself with a pair of scissors and a small screwdriver.  They cost about $50 each.

CORDLESS SYSTEM

Getting rid of your cord so you can wander around the stage is not necessary, but it can be fun.  In the past, cordless systems were horrible.  They were unreliable, added a hissing noise, made loud pops and bangs during songs, had horrible frequency response, and destroyed the musicality of the instrument. 

Cordless systems have come a long way.  Some of the newest generation of digital wireless systems are excellent.  Not quite as good or as reliable as a cord, but much better than in the past.  However, most of the good ones are very expensive.  I have checked out all the inexpensive ones, and nearly all of them are complete junk... except for one:

The Getaria GWS-X3 Pro is available for under $100 on Amazon, and I think it sounds as good as or better than any of the expensive ones.  I love these little buggers.  Low latency, low noise, huge dynamic range, simple to operate, and flat frequency response.  I don't know how rugged they will be, but at this price point, I just bought two sets so I'd have a spare!  The only problem with them is that they shut themselves off when they don't see a musical signal for a while, which isn't good if you are performing with different instruments.

POWER CORD AND POWER STRIP

D'Addario is the most innovative company for guitar accessories.  Their PW-IECPB-10 power cables for powering your amp and PA and so on are 10' long, 12 gauge, and have an outlet for piggybacking to another amp or pedalboard.  Their Tour-Grade Power Base 8 Outlet powerstrip has 8 outlets, including 3 spaced for wal warts, plus surge protection, circuit breaker, a wide base that doesn't tip over onto its side on stage, and a place to wind the cord around it for easy and clean storage.

STRING CHANGING TOOLS (optional)

When you change strings, it is very nice to have a string winder (aka "pegwinder").  You can do it without one, but it's faster and easier with one.  You can get a junky Chinese one on Ebay for about $1, or you can get a decent Dunlop Series 100 Pegwinder from sweetwater.com for about $2.  But the best pegwinder I've found is the MusicNomad MN221 GRIP.  It sells for under $20, and it is a BIG step up.  Much nicer to use.

POLISH (optional)

I recommend the occasional use of a high quality, non-silicone, clear/non-white, spray car wax for polishing your guitar (everywhere but the fretboard).  The very best in my opinion is Turtle Wax "Ice" spray car wax, available at any auto parts store.

MUSIC SLOW DOWNER

I recommend that all students purchase a music player app for their phones that allows them to slow down and/or to change the pitch of recorded music. Slowing down the music is very helpful to guitar and piano students who are learning to play by ear, and changing the pitch is very helpful to vocal students.  There are many apps that do this, but there are only two that I recommend.  Both of them have the limitation that they cannot play music off of Youtube.  Both of them can change speed, change pitch, and loop a certain section of the song over and over.  Both were originally $20 and more recently have been priced at $10-15.

Transcribe + Slow Down Music by Dynamic App Design LLC
This one only works on iPhone, not Android.  It is harder to set up but easier to use than the other app.  It has a great user interface.  I had trouble getting my songs into the app but young people are better at that stuff than I am.  I don’t know if it works with Apple Music cloud downloads.  The sound quality when slowed down is not quite as high as the other app, but most students like this app better.  There is no free trial version.

The Amazing Slow Downer by Roni Music
This app has a version for both iPhone and Android.  It is easier to set up but the user interface is not as nice.  It works well with Apple Music.  The sound quality when slowed down is very high, but that doesn’t make much difference on a phone.  If you get this app, beware that if you get the free trial version, you can’t just simply click a button and pay to turn on the full version.  The trial version (green icon) is a completely separate app from the full version (blue icon), so you have to delete the trial app and download the full app, and all your setup and all the songs you imported are lost and you have to start from scratch.

BLUETOOTH TO 1/8" RECEIVER

If you have a Fender Mustang III V.2 amp, you can play songs from your phone through it while practicing if you buy a little Bluetooth receiver that has a male 1/8" plug on the end.  Just plug it into the "AUX" jack on the amp, and you can jam out with your favorite bands during practice.

HEADPHONES

Headphones can be a great blessing to you and to your family, because you can practice without disturbing anyone.  Just plug a wired pair of headphones into the 1/8" "PHONES" jack on the Mustaing III V.2 amp.  If you want to be even quieter for those around you, get some around-the-ear headphones that seal.  The best ones for a decent price that I am aware of are the Sennheiser HD280Pro.  They sell for about $100 and they sound like $400 studio headphones.